Quick start - jump to the The short checklist..
Introduction
The ethical breeder
These are guides, not rules
Apply your own ethics
Sorting fact from fantasy
Questions help evaluate information
Know what you need to know
Take notes, follow-up
The short checklist
The long checklist
These are questions a person can consider in trying to evaluate the ethical qualities of a breeder. Note that these are not confined just to considering how healthy the dogs being bred are, but the contribution being made to the health and welfare of dogs generally. Part of being ethical is to avoid contributing to the problem and to contribute to the solutions.
This checklist is only a guide, an ideal if you will. Just because something is missing does not mean a person is not an ethical breeder. It is up to you to decide what is important. This checklist is also not complete. No one can do everything. It is the overall picture that is important. If you don't have any idea how to find the breeders to ask them the questions then take a look at the page on Where to Find a Responsible Breeder.
Oh, and don't have a heart attack at the length of this checklist. It isn't as though you need to spend two hours on the phone grilling the person with these questions. Use the questions to help you explore what it is that makes one breeder better than another. You will find that a lot of the answers will become obvious to you as you become more familiar with reading advertisements, and talking dogs with people.
To make things a little easier I've created a few separate lists. The first list is things you should know before you focus on a particular breeder. Yes, you probably will need to talk to breeders to get the information. But at that point you will be in an information gathering stage so it won't matter whether the person has puppies available. Your goal is first to learn about the breed. After you have the basics then start thinking of the breeder as a source of puppies. It will make your information gathering easier if your first question can be " I have some questions about the breed " which any competent breeder can help you with.
The second list is the initial screening in looking for a breeder you even want to waste your time with. This is the point where you are ready to commit to getting a puppy. The third list is for breeders that pass the initial screening.
The last list, the long list is an educational tool. Its purpose is to broaden your perspective and allow you to be a little flexible on your expectations. It may repeat what is in the other lists or it may offer some alternative methods of achieving the same goals.
If you think its too much trouble to work your way through the questions, well OK. Think about what your goal in getting the dog is. I own shelter dogs. My goal is to get a wonderful dog I can share my life with. If that is your only goal, then go to the shelter. If you don't need a carefully bred dog, save a life, but don't encourage poor breeding. There is no reason to support the kind of breeder that is producing the same dogs that get into the shelter.
I understand that some people want or need a well bred dog. I have no problem with that. My point is that if you are going to support the breeding of dogs, perhaps the only breeder that deserves your support is the one that knows how to produce something obviously better than a shelter dog. If you want something better than a shelter dog you will need to do your homework. All the dogs in the shelter came from breeders. What kind of breeders did they come from? Virtually all came from people who didn't know, or didn't care, to learn how to do the best for dogs.
There is only one person you can control. That is yourself. You can make an effort to avoid supporting the breeders who create the dogs dying in the shelters if you decide it is important. If you encourage careless breeding by rewarding the careless breeder then you aren't doing what is in your power to reduce shelter deaths. Yes, sometimes it IS hard to find the ethical breeder. But by insisting on it you will be encouraging that as the "way it should be" and doing what is in your power for the welfare of dogs. When breeders learn that they will have no market unless they meet certain standards they will meet those standards. What kind of standards will you set for breeders you want to encourage and support?
You can find breeders whose first concern is the welfare of the dogs. Look for evidence of that concern in the order of information you get from the breeder. Price is obviously not something to be disregarded but it will come low on the list of things to discuss. High on the list of the breeder's importance is "is this the right home" e.g. does the person understand grooming and care requirements. High on the list of your importance (I'm guessing) is "is this pup going to be healthy? Does it have a good temperament?"
I developed a lot of these questions primarily as a way of exploring the true facts after a breeder claimed that there were no dogs of her breed needing rescue in her area. The truth was that that she just was so uninvolved with the breed that she both didn't know about the dogs needing rescue and had never made a good effort to find out. She did think she had made the effort, but she didn't talk to a single person in any club for her breed. Asking her questions about her contacts in the breed, and specifics of who she talked to quickly revealed her lack of knowledge.
She wasn't intending to mislead, but asking the right questions showed she didn't have a good basis for her claims. If a breeder is going to justify breeding by claiming there aren't any of their breed needing rescue then they ought to be correct and not in fantasy land. It took me just a few minutes of searching on the Internet to find a rescue in her area (and despite appearances the majority of dog people are still not on the 'net if I had gone to the breed club I'd bet I would have found more). I realized that it might be helpful to have more specific questions that would help both the breeder and the buyer recognize the difference between real knowledge and assumptions based on hope or ignorance. The situation also made me realize the importance of "show me". Proof, evidence, is the only way to sort out fact from fantasy.
Before you contact a breeder make sure you have done enough research that you can ask good questions and recognize good answers. Here are some questions
you should be able to answer by the time you are actually looking for a breeder:
What size (height and weight) is correct for this breed? (For AKC breeds see http://www.akc.org, for non-AKC breeds contact the registering organization).
If the breed is not registered with AKC then use extra care. There are quite a few places that make money simply by issuing entirely meaningless papers. It is not always a simple matter to tell when a registry is worthwhile. You have to look at their registration requirements and their pedigree database. The purpose of a registry is to maintain pedigrees. That is to keep permanent researchable records of bloodlines. Pedigrees less than five generations deep are virtually worthless in establishing breed qualities such as predictability of type.
Does this breed need to be brushed or combed more often than once a week?
Does this breed require professional help in clipping or grooming?
How much ground needs to be covered in daily exercise? Is a one mile walk a lot or not very much for this breed?
What are the typical genetic diseases? How does a good breeder test for and avoid those diseases? Which of the diseases are a "must test for" and which are just a breeder going the extra mile? (This information can be hard to find. Check every breed club page you can find. Join breed specific discussion groups. See if you can find back issues of breed specific magazines.)
What are the most common reasons given for giving up this breed to rescue? This is perhaps the most important information you can get. If you understand why someone would give up their dog you can be prepared. Contact as many rescuers of the breed as you can and ask about the common reasons the match fails. This page only has a few rescue links http://www.dog-play.com/rescue.html but it will get you started.
The above questions aren't intended to cover all you need to know before deciding whether a particular breed is right for you. The purpose of knowing the answers to these questions is to help you identify a good breeder. If you can find the answers to these questions, so can any decent breeder. If the breeder gives you different answers than your research supports
uh oh
red flag. In many cases the source of the information will be breeders - but when you are at the exploring stage. Your questions will have a lot different feel during the exploring stage than later when you are focused on looking for that pup.
Take notes. It is really hard to think and talk at the same time. When you are new to something the information you hear may seem reasonable, until you think about it later. By taking notes you can research anything that doesn't seem right. You can also ask non-judgmentally for clarification.
Although I've listed the "right" answers don't instantly give up if you get the "wrong" answer. The longlist will give you a better idea of the purpose of the question and acceptable alternatives. The article from Dog Owner's Guide Just what is a puppy mill? can help you get a better idea of how the checklist helps you evaluate the breeder. And if your reaction is "Sheesh, I'm just buying a dog! Why do I need to give my life history to the breeder!" the idea here is to do what you can to reduce the number of animals killed in shelters across the USA as well as getting a dog that will be healthy and the kind of pet you want. It is your ethics, you can decide one or more of these don't matter to you. They do matter to me.
You want these to be "yes"
Were the puppies born on the premises?
Does the breeder insist that the puppies be at least seven weeks before being placed?
Did the breeder seem happy that you are asking questions?
Did the breeder ask you lots of questions? Questions about your lifestyle, family, experience with dogs and other pets, why you wanted a dog? Did you feel a bit like you were applying for a million dollar mortgage?
Did the breeder ask you whether you planned on breeding?
Will the breeder be available to offer advice and support for as long as you have the dog?
Does the breeder make you feel comfortable calling for advice?
Did the breeder go over some of the problems some people have with the breed?
Is the breeder a member of a breed club? (An organization sharing information on the breed)
Are the sire and dam each at least two years old?
Were both sire and dam tested for any genetic health problems before the breeding?
Does the breeder have information on the health testing of most of the immediate relatives of the sire and dam?
Did the breeder volunteer information on the health testing, and volunteer proof?
Does the breeder offer a guarantee against genetic health problems?
Did the breeder explain that a guarantee is not a promise that a genetic health problem won't occur, but a promise about what will happen if it does?
Is the guarantee at least two years long?
Does the guarantee allow you to keep the dog?
Does the guarantee allow you to choose at least a partial refund instead of another dog?
Is the dam a family pet (meaning does she live in the house as part of the family)? (For that matter does the breeder know what a "dam" is?)
Have the puppies been introduced to children? To other animals?
Is the breeder concerned enough about the welfare of the dog to promise to take it back (no matter how old) if you can't keep it? (Not necessarily pay you, the purpose is to avoid the shelter, ensure good placement)
Does the breeder believe it is important to keep in contact with puppy buyers to verify the level of success in producing a healthy dog of correct temperament?
Does the breeder intend to follow up on the dog as it matures and ages?
Does the breeder consider himself or herself a dedicated hobbyist to the breed?
If the breeder advertises do they focus on the important qualities such as health and temperament.
You want these to be "no"
Did the breeder state or imply that puppies would be arriving from off premises? (e.g. shipped in soon)
Will the breeder agree to sell a puppy less than 7 weeks old?
Was the breeder reluctant to answer questions?
Did the breeder seem to be defensive in answering questions?
Does the breeder charge different prices for dogs with or without papers?
Did the breeder claim that his or her lines were entirely free of genetic health problems?
Do you feel pressured into buying a puppy? Do you feel like the breeder is trying to "sell" the puppy (as in persuading you to buy)?
Does the breeder promote the puppies as gifts or offer some special incentive in price to encourage a sale?
Does the breeder have more than two breeds available?
Does the breeder consider himself or herself to be a professional in the business of breeding? That is "professional" in the sense of making money, profit, or income to be distinguished from "professional" in the sense of serious, dedicated and knowledgeable..
Does the breeder charge different prices depending upon the sex of the puppy?
If the breeder advertises do they seem to focus on superficial qualities like color or size while ignoring health testing?
Does the guarantee require the dog die or be euthanized because of the health problem?
Does the health guarantee require that you return the puppy?
Is the guarantee limited to a replacement puppy from the same breeder?
Wow! Do all those answers really have to be "correct"?
That's up to you and your standards. What I've listed is the bare minimum I would accept. There is actually a lot more I require to feel comfortable supporting a breeder. But I tried to make a list that was just "yes" or "no". However, these are merely my standards. You have to decide your own standards. If you don't think a point is important then don't require it, simple as that. The list is mainly for people who don't know about the issues in the first place. And it is for people who don't know they can demand much more than they get from a pet shop, for much less than it will cost them at a pet shop. That's the basic difference between the person who breeds for income, and the one who breeds because they love the breed. The primary concern of the first type is to avoid losing money, if they lose too much they are out of business. The primary concern of the second type is the dogs. They expect to lose money and lose lots of money. For them breeding is a passion, not a business.
A slightly different approach is here Red Lights, Green Lights: Questions to ask the breeder
(Contributed by Hannah Samuelson)
Fill in the blanks, put N/A if not applicable or unavailable
:
Sire's registered name:
Titles:
Accomplishments:
OFA number:
CERF number:
Cardio results:
Thyroid results:
vWD results:
Other test results:
Pedigree examined for the following conditions:
Additional health background information:
Dam's registered name:
Titles:
Accomplishments:
OFA number:
CERF number:
Cardio results:
Thyroid results:
vWD results:
Other test results:
Pedigree examined for the following conditions:
Additional health background information:
Sire's strengths:
Sire's weaknesses:
Dam's strengths:
Dam's weaknesses:
Qualities litter was bred for:
Summary of important contract provisions:
Other important information:
There really is not a single test for responsible breeders. This longer list is intended to consider the variety of ways in which a breeder can contribute to the welfare of dogs, and thus earn the label "ethical breeder."
The responsible breeder is involved with welfare of the breed or of dogs generally. Not everyone can be involved directly, but all breeders can and should contribute to taking care of the breed.
In what way is the breeder involved with rescue? Name the rescue organization or shelter that the breeder works with.
If the breeder is not coordinating with a rescue organization or organization then describe how the breeder
discovers potential rescue dogs and
makes sure they are placed appropriately.
Describe the breeder's rescue activities, e.g. taking in fosters, providing financial support, volunteer at local shelter, improved adoptability of dogs by grooming, exercising, helping retrain and rehabilitate, fundraising, providing logistical support (educational, web sites, etc.).
What is the breeder's familiarity with level of rescue needs both locally and across the country?
How often does the breeder visit local shelters just to see what goes on at that shelter? For example, has the breeder visited in person to learn whether breeds are accurately identified and how frequently the breed ends up in the shelter?
What are the names of shelter personnel the breeder contacted to discuss frequency of the breed appearing in shelters, and typical problems seen in the breed?
Can the breeder name the local rescue organization? If the breeder believes there is no local rescue then:
Can the breeder name the officer of the National breed club to contact and learn about rescue locally and across the country? The National breed club would either be the "parent club" for a multi-breed registry such as AKC, or the breed registry for breed specific registries. Has the breeder actually ever contacted this person regarding breed rescue?
Can the breeder identify (by name, address, and phone) the closest local or non-local rescue for the breed?
A responsible breeder should be involved with the breed in other ways in order to build a resource base of information and knowledge. These would be activities that would tend to help the breeder make and maintain contacts with other people in the breed. They will also be ways in which the breeder contributes to the health and welfare of the breed.
Is the breeder involved with the breed club?
Does the breed club have a code of ethics? Does the breeder conform to the breed club code of ethics? (It is entirely possible to conform to a code of ethics and not be a member of that club. Of course there are no consequences for failure to conform if one is not a member of the club but being aware of the code of ethics is a good thing.
What activities does the breeder participate in? For example, obedience, conformation, agility, tracking, coursing, . . . (there are lots more)
Does the breeder support any health registry by contributing information on dogs in the pedigree even if those dogs are not going to be bred.
Give additional examples of ways in which the breeder contributes to the health and welfare of either the breed or dogs generally.
How many breeds does this breeder raise? The answer should be no more than two. It takes a tremendous amount of time and effort to learn what it takes to do a good job of breeding. It is very unusual for a breeder to be competent and up-to-date in more than two breeds. There is only so much time in the day.
Will the buyer be required to spay or neuter the puppy?
At what age will this requirement be enforced?
What incentive is being given to encourage compliance?
What is the potential consequence if the requirement is not met?
If this requirement is important to the breeder does the contract expressly state that agreement and compliance is "material" to the contract?
The responsible breeder takes steps to protect the dog from becoming a shelter statistic.
Does the contract require return of the dog or an opportunity to approve placement if the buyer cannot or will not keep the dog? Does this apply no matter how old the dog is?
That does not mean the breeder must refund the money. The purpose of the provision is the protection of the dog. The contract should include fair provisions accounting for whether the breeder gets any value by accepting the dog back. The buyer needs to understand that in most cases accepting the dog back is a burden taken on for the benefit of the dog and is not a benefit to the breeder. The breeder, however, needs to reassure the buyer that return to the breeder is not unfairly beneficial to the breeder. The goal is to encourage return instead of sale to an unsuitable home or surrender to a shelter or rescue.
Does the breeder care whether the person buying the dog is going to be a good match? What steps has the breeder taken to try to make sure the buyer is prepared to meet the needs of the dog?
Does the breeder interview interested people to learn if they understand what it takes to successfully raise and train the breed? Does the breeder try to learn if the potential buyer has experience in the breed or has taken steps to become educated?
Is the breeder open to discussing the breed at shows and competitions?
How does the breeder gauge the seriousness of interest? Does the breeder notice whether the buyer has asked important questions regarding contract provisions, health testing, breed standards, temperament, appropriate levels of exercise, and similar evidence of taking the responsibility seriously? Does the breeder volunteer information on these issues?
Does the breeder volunteer information on genetic health problems?
It isn't possible to produce dogs entirely free of genetic problems. So if a breeder tries to say that there are
no problems they are either lying or extremely ignorant. What you want is a breeder that is honest about what potential problems exist, and who tries to reduce the risk of problems, especially the serious ones. There are some breeds that have a very low rate of problems. There are none that have no problems at all.
Does the breeder discuss the breeding potential for the dog? Does the breeder leave that decision entirely up to the buyer? Does the breeder discuss breeding ethics?
Other steps . . .
How is the puppy buyer being supported and assisted in making the match successful?
What is the breeder's experience with raising and training this breed?
What books, pamphlets and other resources does the breeder recommend for those new to the breed or to answer basic questions on puppy raising?
Can the breeder provide the name of trainer or behaviorist competent to serve as a referral in the event of special problems and needs?
In what ways is the buyer encouraged to provide proper training and socialization?
Does the breeder provide referral to puppy kindergarten?
Does the breeder provide a list of competent obedience trainers or referral sources?
Will the breeder offer refunds for scheduled completion of accomplishments e.g. CGC, CD, or performance titles?
In what way is the buyer being encouraged to ask questions and seek advice from the breeder?
Are the contact parameters in the contract (that they aren't isn't necessarily bad but you want them where they can be found)
Is the breeder going to follow the progress of the puppy by calling? how often? is the buyer going to be expected to provide a progress report? What will be included and how often?
Were the puppies raised in the house as members of the family?
What steps are being taken to properly socialize each individual puppy? (Socializing is not playing, socializing is becoming familiar and comfortable with - so the puppy should have been introduced to children, other animals, a variety of people, different scents and sounds) List them
How old will the puppies be when they are placed in their new homes? Responsible breeders will not place puppies younger than seven weeks old. This is important for the best social and mental development of the puppy. Singletons (only puppies) and those removed from the litter early miss out on critical lessons in how to be a dog. This can be overcome to some extent by finding other playmates appropriately close in age AND an adult who can take the place of a skilled bitch teaching social manners.
How often will the puppy need to go outside at that point, and what is the effect on future house training if the puppy cannot get outside that often? The younger the puppy the more often it has to go out. If the person taking care of the pup cannot get it out as often as it needs to go then house training can be made much more difficult. At eight weeks of age a puppy can wait about 2 hours before it needs to go out. It will need to go out more frequently when it is active, eating or drinking.
What steps will the buyer need to take for proper socialization? What is the buyer's plan for taking those steps?
How is the temperament of the puppy evaluated?
How are the family and puppy matched? Can the buyer just pick any puppy? Or will the breeder interview the buyer and try to make the match?
Takes steps to ensure that the dogs being produced are an improvement on health, temperament and qualities as a companion.
Remember, it isn't possible to produce the perfect dog. What a breeder can do is become educated on what genetic diseases are, how they are expressed (become obvious instead of hidden), how serious they are in terms of risks to quality of life, and how to balance the risks so the dogs have the best chance at a good quality of life. So if you are looking at the qualities of a breeder what you want to know is how well educated the breeder has become on these issues, and whether the breeder makes good use of that education.
If a breeder can only tell you that a vet checked the dog and found it healthy then they do not have the information they need to breed healthy dogs. Even in breeds with a very low rate of problems the educated breeder knows enough to know the most common problems in *other* breeds and how those problems are discovered. Again, look at the source of information. Sorry, but veterinarians *aren't* the best source of learning what genetic problems affect what breeds. They are generally more concerned with the general dog population, and what problems are actually affecting the life of the dog before them. They leave it to breeders to detect and avoid the potential for problems in future dogs.
List the typical genetic diseases for your breed.
Where did the list come from? What resources were used to learn about the typical genetic diseases?
What is the level of seriousness of those diseases? Which are correctable or treatable? Which affect the quality of life for the dog, or are a burden on the owner?
What steps can be taken to reduce the risk of the serious genetic disease?
For each genetic problem list how the problem can be identified. Explain whether an ordinary veterinary exam will discover the problem at the age the dog is to be bred. Confirm whether carriers can be identified by blood, DNA, or other tests (make sure you know what a carrier is). Determine how information can be gathered about problems that cannot be detected by test. What evidence can the breeder give to the buyer that these steps have been taken?
What books, seminars or classes were used to learn about basic genetics, breed specific problems, and steps that can be used to reduce the risk of those problems?
What evidence can the breeder show you of steps taken for the good genetic health of this particular litter? Certificates? Paperwork?
Are the great-grandparents still alive? If any are not, what did they die of? And the progeny of the great-grandparents? What is the health of other dogs in the line?
Can the breeder provide you with health clearance information of at least some other dogs in the line, not just the parents?
For the most part a breeder should know the health and fitness of the immediate family members. Making good breeding decisions requires knowing the health of as much of the immediate family as possible. The more information the breeder has on other dogs in the pedigree the more confident you can be that the breeder has been making good decisions.
Does the health guarantee offered reflect confidence in the genetic health of the puppies? A two year guarantee is a bare minimum. It avoids covering late onset problems such as blindness and cardiac problems. Such a short guarantee suggests the breeder doesn't really understand the difference between fault and responsibility. A breeder who truly stands behind their dogs accepts responsibility for genetic problems even if it is not their fault that those problems occur. Less than a two year guarantee is simply unacceptable as so many conditions will not be detectable at an early age.
Steps taken to produce dogs of predictable qualities.
Does the breeder possess a physical copy of the breed standard?
What resources does the breeder use to get more technical information on the breed such as pedigrees, genetic problems, advanced training etc.?
Can the breeder list the dam's strengths and weaknesses in relation to the breed standard?
How were these strengths and weaknesses evaluated?
How did the person who evaluated the strengths and weaknesses obtain the expertise to make the evaluation?
How can the objectivity of the evaluation be assessed?
Can the breeder list the sire's strengths and weaknesses in relation to the breed standard?
How were these strengths and weaknesses evaluated?
How did the person who evaluated the strengths and weaknesses obtain the expertise to make the evaluation?
How can the objectivity of the evaluation be assessed?
Compare the temperament of the dam to what is common in the breed
How were these qualities evaluated?
How did the person making the evaluation obtain the expertise to make the evaluation
How can the objectivity of the evaluation be assessed?
In what way do these qualities benefit the breed?
Compare the temperament of the sire to what is common in the breed
How were these qualities evaluated?
How did the person making the evaluation obtain the expertise to make the evaluation?
How can the objectivity of the evaluation be assessed?
In what way do these qualities benefit the breed?
List the other dogs in the pedigree that were examined for health or temperament before the decision was made to breed this sire to this dam.
What strengths and weakness were discovered?
What is the expected influence of those strengths and weaknesses?
Are these puppies expected to conform to breed standard? If they do not conform to breed standard then in what way do they deviate from breed standard? If there is deviation why did that occur? Note, this is not necessarily a bad thing just something both breeder and buyer should be clear on. Be aware that deviation from standard tends to represent extremes - the very worst breeders, and some of the very best. The worst situation is a breeder who either doesn't know, or doesn't care if there is a deviation (i.e. is thoughtless about it).
Any deviation from breed standards should be thoughtful, well researched and expressly disclosed in the contract. The breeder should be prepared to discuss the breed standard and the degree to which the puppies will conform or deviate from that standard, the goals of the breeding in general, and the reason for selecting that sire and that dam in particular.
What has the breeder produced already? If the breeder has produced puppies in the past has the breeder kept in touch? Is the breeder concerned with their welfare? Has the breeder recorded their health and temperament as they mature and age?
What is the breeder doing to follow up on what they have produced? Trying to do a good job of producing healthy puppies of appropriate temperament becomes a futile exercise if the breeder does nothing to find out whether those attempts have been successuful. What went right and what went wrong is viatl in continuing to improve. Surprises happen all the time. Genetics is complex and sometimes what seems like a perfect match ends up with unexpected problems. Really critical problems might come to the attention of even the disinterested breeder. But to ensure that apparently smaller things, like allergies, are caught breeders need to keep in touch, show an intereest and expressly ask about things the average person might not think important enough to report.
Evaluating the buyer to determine a good match for the breed is important as is making sure there are competent buyers available. What steps has the breeder taken to locate potential buyers before the mating?
What questions did the breeder ask you?
A breeder who cares for dogs does their very best to make sure that the puppy goes to a home that has both the willingness and the ability to provide what the puppy needs to grow up into a happy, healthy wonderful pet. That means the breeder is going to need some information from you. Be prepared to provide the answers and please don't feel insulted. It may not feel like it but they aren't asking questions to make you feel bad. They are just doing the best for their puppies. If you aren't comfortable with the breeder, or how they deal with you, then move on to another. Just understand that their goal is to do the best they can for the puppy, and the breeder is human and may have a hard time coming up with the right tone. Also don't feel that just because you made a mistake or had a bad experience that no breeder will ever consider you "worthy" of a puppy. It is true that some just won't take a chance. Most, however, just want to know what has changed. What will prevent the same kind of problem from happening again.
A breeder will want to know about your experience with dogs. Your experience can range from never having shared a home with a dog, to growing up with a dog, to having complete responsibility for a dog. The breed (or breeds) will be important, as will the age you got the dog, how long you had it, and your level of responsibility in caring for it (that is did you just live in the same household, or were you the primary caretaker). If you taught the dog anything more than basic good manner that is a big plus.
A breeder will want to know who else will be sharing the household or will be regular visitors. The experience needed to have a dog in which children are a regular part of the household is higher than if generally only adults are present. If you are expecting a child within two years of getting the dog expect to be questioned especially closely as that is an extra challenge for the average, less experienced person.
Similarly a good breeder will want to know whether other pets either share the household or will be regular visitors. If there are other pets the breeder should ask further questions about your experience on supervising and managing so that there can be a safe and peaceful coexistence. If your community limits the number of pets you can keep in one household the breeder will expect you to know that information and to commit to not violating those limits.
A breeder will want to know about the space you live in. One of the most important questions is whether you own or rent. If you rent you should expect the breeder to ask for proof that the landlord permits dogs. One of the highest risks to dogs is being sneaked into an apartment where pets are forbidden. Many a dog has lost its life in the pound when the person faced the choice of eviction or getting rid of the dog. If the space is relatively confined the breeder will want to know whether you have taken that into consideration. Different breeds have different indoor activity levels. You may be asked whether you have a fenced yard. Some breeders will say they will never place a dog in a home without a fenced yard. I understand their rationale but I'm not entirely sure I agree with the results. All too often the presence of a fenced yard means the dog never sees anything but the house and yard. In any case you should be prepared to answer to the real concern, which is how will you ensure the dog is safe and controlled both in getting exercise and in going out for bodily relief. As part of that the breeder should be given pretty specific information about your plans for daily exercise and training - how long and how much of each.
The more specific and well thought out your plans for teaching the dog how to be well mannered the better the breeder will feel. Even better is to have specific plans and honest commitment to getting involved in some kind of regular activity with the dog. That could be any number of things from the informal to the formal.
Getting into the more touchy areas the breeder will want to make sure you are both aware and realistic about both the time and financial commitment you are making. Before you contact a breed you should have gotten a good idea of costs annual veterinary visits, licensing, grooming, training, food, supplies and allowance for emergency vet care. Try to save the breeder the awkwardness of asking by volunteering your awareness and ability to meet those needs.
Expect to be asked why you want a dog, and why you want this particular breed. One of the big reasons dogs don't keep their original homes is that people aren't always realistic in their expectations. Permanent placement requires realistic expectations by the buyer.
A common theme is to get a dog "for the kids". Any responsible breeder will instantly focus in on that reason. A dog is not an educational tool. There is certainly much value and learning in pet ownership but the desire and motivation to have a dog must start with the parties responsible for the dog - the parents. If keeping the dog is dependent upon the interest and involvement of the children a responsible breeder will not place the dog in that family.
If you are young the breeder may again pose awkward but necessary questions about your plans for the future. Showing the breeder that you have not only thought ahead but you are realistic about your ability to continue to provide for the needs of the dog is important. For example, if you are a teenager getting a dog the good breeder will want to make sure that there are solid and realistic plans for the dog when you leave home. If you think you are going to take the dog with you then you will be expected to know and be able to deal with the difficulties and expense of finding housing. If the dog will be left behind then someone else in the household will have to show the same love and caring you have before the breeder will ever let the dog go to you. Otherwise when you leave the dog may suffer.
OK, if you have plowed through all that let me take a moment to remind you. You won't find a breeder that does all of the above. The purpose of the list is to help you get a feel for what responsible breeding is all about. It is to help you understand the reasons for requirements or provisions that might otherwise seem bizarre or overbearing. It is also to help you get enough knowledge to distinguish the good talker from the good doer. A great talker has reasons for everything, but if you know what to ask their story doesn't hold together. Don't be afraid to ask questions. The better the breeder the happier they will be that you care enough to not just swallow things whole. On the other hand don't be offensive about it. You will want to build a relationship of trust because if you have found a truly caring breeder you have found gold.
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Copyright © 1999-2003, Diane Blackman
Created: February 6, 1999
Updated November 12, 2007